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Flowers & Ornamentals

How to Deadhead Flowers for More Blooms All Season

Where to cut a faded flower, which annuals, perennials and roses rebloom after deadheading, which plants to leave alone, and when to stop for the year.

By The Rooted Almanac Team Updated 5 min read

Why Deadheading Brings More Flowers

To deadhead, remove each faded flower together with its stalk, cutting or pinching back to just above the next bud or leaf on the stem. Do it as soon as the flower looks scruffy. The Royal Horticultural Society suggests daily for summer bedding plants and once a week or every other week for border perennials. Removing the old flower stops the plant from forming seed, and many annuals, perennials and repeat-flowering roses answer with new buds.

The Royal Horticultural Society gives the reason plainly: deadheading directs energy into stronger growth and more flowers instead of seed pods. It also keeps heavy-petaled flowers such as peonies from scattering old petals, and it prevents self-seeding in plants that spread readily that way.

How much it helps depends on the plant. University of Illinois Extension describes deadheading as a way to encourage a longer bloom time in certain species, and the plant lists further down show which ones.

Where to Make the Cut

The position of the cut depends on what is below the flower. A Penn State Extension Master Gardener brochure gives three cases. If new flower buds are present, cut to the topmost one. If the flower is on a leafy stem, cut to a leaf. If it stands on a bare stalk, cut to the basal rosette, the cluster of leaves at the base of the plant.

Decision chart showing where to cut a faded flower depending on whether it sits on a budded stem, leafy stem, bare stalk, spike or roseWhat does the faded flower sit on? A stem with new flower buds below: Cut to the topmost bud. A leafy stem with no buds showing: Cut back to a leaf. A bare stalk rising from the base: Cut the stalk down to the basal rosette of leaves. A spike or head of many flowers: Prune the whole head to just above a lower bud, leaf or side shoot. An established rose: Cut about 1/4 inch above a 5-leaflet leaf.What does the faded flower sit on?A stem with newflower budsbelowCut to the topmost bud.A leafy stemwith no budsshowingCut back to a leaf.A bare stalkrising from thebaseCut the stalk down tothe basal rosette ofleaves.A spike or headof many flowersPrune the whole head tojust above a lower bud,leaf or side shoot.An establishedroseCut about 1/4 inch abovea 5-leaflet leaf.
Look at the stem under the faded flower, find it on the left, and make the cut named on the right.

University of New Hampshire Extension reduces this to one habit for perennials: cut spent flowers back to a lateral bud or leaf. On peonies and irises it adds that a cut placed low enough is hidden by the foliage.

Spikes and heads carrying many flowers need two passes. For delphiniums and lupins, the Royal Horticultural Society advises pinching or trimming off single flowers where practical, then pruning the entire head to just above a lower bud, leaf or side shoot once all the flowers have finished.

Tools follow the stem. Soft growth can be pinched or snapped off between finger and thumb. For thick, tough or stringy stems the Royal Horticultural Society recommends secateurs, scissors or a knife. Our guide to choosing pruning shears covers which type suits which stem.

Annuals and Bedding Plants

Annuals complete their life in one season, so they are the group that needs the most frequent attention, daily at the height of summer by the Royal Horticultural Society’s guide. The Penn State brochure lists annuals worth deadheading, among them cosmos, geranium, marigold, nasturtium, pansy, petunia, snapdragon, verbena and zinnia.

Most of these can be done by hand. Petunias, pansies and heliotrope are pinched off with the flower stalk. Pelargoniums, the bedding plants usually sold as geraniums, take two steps: pinch off individual flowers, then cut the whole cluster and its long stalk down to just above where it joins the main stem.

Three common annuals need no deadheading at all. Fibrous begonia, impatiens and moss rose drop their own spent flowers, according to the Penn State brochure. The Royal Horticultural Society adds fuchsias, bedding lobelias and salvias, which either set little seed or shed their flowers neatly. The two sources part ways here, since the Penn State brochure keeps lobelia and salvia on its list of annuals to deadhead and suggests pruning back lobelia’s long stems in midsummer.

Perennials, Plant by Plant

Perennials vary more than annuals, so it pays to know each one.

PlantWhat to doSource
Shasta daisyCut back to a lateral flower bud; it produces more flowersNew Hampshire
DianthusShear all stems down to the basal foliage; new flowers often follow within a few weeksNew Hampshire
Campanula, garden phloxDeadhead to a lateral bud or leafNew Hampshire
CoreopsisShear the mass of spent flowersPenn State
Delphinium, lupinPrune the whole head to a lower bud, leaf or side shootRoyal Horticultural Society
Hardy geranium, catmint, lady’s mantleCut back close to ground level after flowering for a second flushRoyal Horticultural Society
PeonyClip the stem back to a strong leafNew Hampshire
IrisCut the whole flowering stalk as low as possibleNew Hampshire
Daffodils and other large bulbsRemove the flower behind the seed capsule and leave the green stalkRoyal Horticultural Society

University of Illinois Extension lists butterfly weed, coreopsis, scarlet bee balm, garden phlox and Culver’s root among perennials that bloom longer when deadheaded. Daylilies are deadheaded for looks: the Penn State brochure lists them “for appearance”, and New Hampshire says that while the plants are in full bloom all you need to do is snap off the spent flower heads.

Go carefully with shears. Illinois cautions that cutting back more than half of the foliage can put a plant under stress. For planting ideas that need little of this work, see the list of low-maintenance perennials, and tired clumps that flower poorly may need dividing more than deadheading.

Roses

Roses have their own rule, based on the leaves. Iowa State University Extension advises that on an established rose the stem may be cut back to a 5-leaflet leaf, keeping at least two 5-leaflet leaves on each shoot. Make the cut about 1/4 inch above the leaf, parallel to the angle of the leaf.

First-year roses get a lighter touch. Once all the flowers in a cluster have died, remove them above the uppermost 3-leaflet leaf.

The Royal Horticultural Society describes a quicker method for hybrid teas: snap the faded flower off, breaking the stalk just below the head. For other roses it advises snipping individual flowers or clusters down to just above the next leaf.

Plants to Leave Alone

Some flowers are worth more as seed heads. The Royal Horticultural Society advises against deadheading rudbeckias, cornflowers and sunflowers, whose seed feeds birds, and species and rambler roses, which carry decorative hips. Love-in-a-mist and honesty are grown partly for their ornamental seed heads.

The Penn State brochure names perennials to leave standing through winter: aster, astilbe, common yarrow, coneflower, liatris, oriental poppy, rudbeckia and sedum. Sources differ on purple coneflower. Illinois lists it among plants that flower longer with deadheading, so a workable middle path is to deadhead early flushes and leave the last one.

When to Stop for the Season

For most flowers, deadheading runs from early spring until a killing frost, as the Penn State brochure puts it. Roses are the exception.

Iowa State University Extension advises gardeners in Iowa to stop deadheading hybrid tea, grandiflora and floribunda roses in late summer, in late August or September. The spent flowers then develop into hips. Hip development slows the plant’s growth and helps prepare it for winter.

Sources

deadheadingmore bloomsflower gardeningperennialsannualsgarden maintenance

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